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HOW IT WORKS

What are the main components in skin?

‍The skin consists of three layers: the epidermis (outermost layer), the dermis, and the hypodermis (innermost layer). Human dermal fibroblasts are cells found in the dermis that produce and secrete many proteins into the extracellular matrix, providing healthy skin its characteristics. Elastin is one such protein, providing elasticity, stretch, and recoil properties of skin [1]. Elastin production occurs largely during fetal and early development and decreases during adulthood [2,3]. Collagen is another protein, providing skin its structural integrity and firmness [4]. Similar to elastin, collagen undergoes rapid turnover in adolescence and decreases by about 1% per year as we age [4,5]. In addition to elastin and collagen, human dermal fibroblasts secrete glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is one of many GAGs, known for attracting water molecules to maintain skin hydration [6,7].

‍What drives skin aging?

‍Total skin thickness decreases by about 6% per decade as we age [8]. Signs of skin aging are driven by chronic inflammation and oxidative stress that accelerate the breakdown of elastin, collagen, GAGs, and other components in the dermal extracellular matrix [9–11]. The breakdown of proteins in the extracellular matrix, coupled with the decline in protein production by human dermal fibroblasts are caused by extrinsic and intrinsic factors. Extrinsic factors may include ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight, smoke or other air pollutants, and diet. Intrinsic factors such as cellular metabolism, genetics, and hormonal variations may also influence production of elastin, collagen, and GAGs.

How do dermatological products currently address the decline in elastin, collagen, and GAGs?

‍Current market anti-aging creams and serums aim to supplement the skin with elastin, collagen, and GAGs such as hyaluronic acid (HA). Collagen/collagen peptides are meant to stimulate human dermal fibroblasts to increase collagen production [12]. Retinoids such as retinol and retinoic acid are Vitamin A derivatives also stimulate human dermal fibroblasts to generate more extracellular matrix proteins [13]. Other antioxidants such as Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, Coenzyme Q10, or green tea extracts may also be used to neutralize free radicals and reduce oxidative stress [14–16].

Do these active ingredients reach the dermal fibroblast cells?

‍Though many of these active ingredients in anti-aging formulations have shown to promote the production of elastin, collagen, and GAGs, the actual delivery of these ingredients to the dermal extracellular matrix remains a concern. Topical cosmetic formulations are unable to mediate the effective transport of large active ingredients across the stratum corneum in the epidermis [17–25]. Moreover, the presence of proteolytic enzymes in the epidermis presents a challenge for peptide-based active ingredients [26,27]. Recent advances in delivery technology has allowed for active ingredients in cosmetic formulations to be transported across the stratum corneum. These include chemical modifications to enhance skin biocompatibility [28,29], microneedles to bypass the stratum corneum [30–32], and lipid nanoparticles [33–36]. Despite these innovations, concerns with microneedles and lipid nanoparticles include invasiveness, skin irritation/sensitivity, and long-term bioaccumulation. At BioThera Solutions, we are harnessing the potential of extracellular vesicles (EVs) for the effective delivery of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory molecules past the stratum corneum to the actively dividing cells.

What are extracellular vesicles?
‍Extracellular vesicles, known as EVs, are best defined by the International Society for Extracellular Vesicles (ISEV) as naturally secreted vesicles with a lipid bilayer that vary in size, origin, and contents [37]. They are secreted by all cells to mediate intercellular communication by carrying various biomolecules such as proteins (anti-inflammatory enzymes, antioxidants, etc.) to neighbouring cells [38]. Their biocompatibility, scalability, and beneficial cargo make them a versatile tool for use in skincare. BioThera Solutions aims to utilize all-natural plant-derived EVs, that may reach the actively dividing skin cells in the dermis where they are needed most, given their size and anti-inflammatory/antioxidant payload*. It’s like your skin cells receiving a care package filled with tools to repair and refresh themselves.
‍How do extracellular vesicles differ from emerging exosome skin treatments?
A few emerging skincare brands offer exosome-based products. Despite “exosome” being a more commonly used term, leading scientists have formed a consensus through the Minimal information for studies of extracellular vesicles (MISEV) guidelines that EVs may consist of exosomes, ectosomes, or microvesicles [37]. This means that all exosomes are EVs, but not all EVs are exosomes. Since exosomes cannot be separated from ectosomes or microvesicles due to overlapping physical characteristics, the term exosomes cannot be the most appropriate term to describe our skincare solutions as we adhere to the field’s emerging standards.

*Based on literature findings only, to be tested experimentally and clinically.

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Next-generation Skincare
Using Extracellular Vesicles

Unlock real skin rejuvenation using plant-derived extracellular vesicles for deep skin penetration!

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anti-aging serum